의복구성의 실무 (패턴메이킹과 봉제를 중심으로 | 개정판)

김경화

광주대학교의상디자인학과졸업(미술학사)
건국대학교대학원의류학과(가정학석사)
건국대학교대학원의류학과박사수료

기능경기대회양장부문은메달
서울모델리스트컨테스트최우수상
한국산업인력공단의복구성교재부검토위원
강원지방기능경기대회심사위원

직업능력개발훈련교사의상3급자격증
양장기능사봉제,패턴자격증
의류기사자격증

(주)NIB디자이너근무
(주)진태옥모델리스트근무

라사라패션디자인학교모델리스트강사
건국대학교강사
성신여자대학교강사
광주대학교강사
우성대학교강사
공주대학교강사
용인송담대학교강사
국립강릉원주대학교겸임교수역임
현)건국대학교국가인적자원개발컨소시엄사업단책임연구원

저서로는『양장기능사실기시험문제를중심으로한의복구성의실무-재킷편-』,『새로운패턴메이킹1-스커트와양장기능사문제를중심으로-』,『새로운패턴메이킹2?블라우스,베스트,점퍼등』,『BASICSEWINGforWomen’sclothes(여성복기초부분봉제』,『고급패턴제작의이해와실무』,『-패턴메이킹봉제를중심으로-의복구성의실무(개정판)』이있다.

1.기초편.....................................................................................11
1.인체계측............................................................................12
2.용구..................................................................................16
1)제도용구.......................................................................16
2)표시용구.......................................................................17
3)바느질및봉제용구........................................................17
4)다림질용구....................................................................20
3.기초부분봉제....................................................................21
1)재봉틀준비하기..............................................................21
2)실표뜨기용면사준비.....................................................23
3)기초손바느질시접.........................................................24
실고리만들기................................................................25
4)솔기시접처리...............................................................26
5)심지...............................................................................27
6)옷감준비.......................................................................30
옷감의구조........................................................................30
옷감의정리........................................................................30
(1)옷감의결맞추기...........................................................30
(2)옷감의축융및올바로잡기............................................31
(3)옷감에따른패턴배치방법............................................33
(4)방향이있는옷감의패턴배치방법.................................35
(5)무늬옷감의패턴배치...................................................36
1무늬의종류..............................................................36
2체크무늬옷감의패턴배치방법.................................37
사방대칭체크무늬...................................................37
비대칭체크무늬........................................................38
3줄무늬옷감의패턴배치방법....................................39
대칭줄무늬..............................................................39
비대칭줄무늬............................................................39
세로무늬맞추는법..................................................40
4무늬별배치법...........................................................41
(6)소재.............................................................................42

2.기본원형...............................................................................43
1.제도에필요한부호..........................................................44
2.몸판다트의위치와명칭..................................................45
3.기본원형.......................................................................46
1)몸판원형에필요한명칭및약어..................................46
2)소매에필요한명칭및약어..........................................47
3)기본몸판원형............................................................48
(1)기본앞몸판원형.......................................................48
(2)어깨다트가없는뒤몸판원형.....................................49
(3)어깨다트가있는뒤몸판원형.....................................50
(4)무다트몸판원형.......................................................52
(5)소매원형..................................................................53
(6)원형정리..................................................................55
(7)소매와앞뒤몸판에너치표시하는방법.......................59
4.재킷...............................................................................61
재킷의정의.................................................................61
재킷의역사.................................................................61
재킷의종류.................................................................61
1)재킷의부위별명칭.......................................................62
2)계절별재킷안감쓰는방법...........................................63
5.재킷원형........................................................................64
1)박스타입원형...............................................................64
2)토르소원형..................................................................65
3)암홀프린세스라인원형.................................................66
4)숄더프린세스라인원형.................................................67
5)한장타이트소매원형.................................................68
6)두장소매원형............................................................69

3.재킷........................................................................................71

1)피크드칼라재킷(PeakedCollarJacket)........................73
1.제작공정..................................................................75
2.제도..........................................................................76
(1)몸판제도..............................................................76
(2)소매제도..............................................................76
(3)칼라제도..............................................................77
3.시접주기..................................................................78
(1)겉감시접주기..............