임종업
신문쟁이.초등학교때부터신문읽기를시작해지금까지구독하고있다.서울대학교국문학과를졸업했으며,《전자신문》에서시작해《한겨레신문》편집부,여론매체부,문화부등에서30년동안기자로일했다.
직업의경험과공부를살려《신문기사제목달기》《한국의책쟁이들》《미술마을인문기행》《작품의고향》등의책을냈고,《파주역사여행》은《대성동:DMZ의숨겨진마을》에이어DMZ와관련한그의두번째책이다.
프롤로그_파주의어제와오늘···2
파주지도···10
첫날,비무장지대를가다
멀지만가까운관광지판문점············································14
ㆍ다단계출입절차··························································14
ㆍ드디어판문점·······························································19
ㆍ위상과는사뭇다른인상················································22
ㆍ남북모두의관광지·······················································25
판문점에서벌어진소련인망명사건································36a
ㆍ추모비의정체를찾아····················································36
ㆍ소련청년분계선을넘다···············································40
ㆍ전쟁직전까지간1984년판문점전투····························42
ㆍ장명기상병을기리며····················································47
도라전망대에서볼수있는것···········································50
ㆍ24만의포로가양산된한국전쟁·····································62
ㆍ치열한이데올로기전이었던포로송환문제···················64
ㆍDMZ에지을수밖에없던포로수용소·····························68
ㆍ사건사고가끊이지않았다·············································73
이틀째,임진강은흐른다
한강과임진강의길목오두산성·······················80
ㆍ삼국시대부터중요했다·······················80
ㆍ쿠데타에관련되다·······················87
ㆍ오두산성을지켜보는장준하묘소·······················90
임진강남쪽235고지설마리·······················96
ㆍ성조지의날전야·······················97
ㆍ영국군글로스터대대의궤멸·······················102
ㆍ설마리추모공원가는길·······················107
신앙의자유를찾아숨어든마을갈곡리·······················108
ㆍ수많은성직자와수도자를배출한작은골짜기·······················111
ㆍ성당건물을구호품으로받다·······················14
ㆍ질그릇만들던마을·······················117
임진강에서고기를잡다·······················122
ㆍ물반,고기반·······················122
ㆍ고기를잡으려면제비를뽑아야·······················126
ㆍ91개로제한된어업권·······················130
사흘째,파주의지역성과보편성
서울에서나고도파주삼현이라불린그들·························136
ㆍ20대에만나평생을교유한동무들································136
ㆍ편지를주고받으며한국철학사에한획을긋다···············140
ㆍ선조의눈밖에난율곡과우계·······································144
ㆍ노비로전락한구봉의기구한삶····································148
ㆍ삼현의흔적을찾아·······················································151
반정세력의근거지가된덕진산성·····································154
ㆍ범잡으려다왕위를잡힌광해········································155
ㆍ인조반정과12.12쿠데타비교·········································159
ㆍ고구려에서조선까지이어진산성··································160
ㆍ덕진산성의현재···························································162
전설이된장단부사이서··················································165
ㆍ이서전설의탄생··························································168
ㆍ웅담리에남은윤관의슬픈전설····································170
ㆍ그리스신화에도나오는이야기·····································172
ㆍ동서양이전설을공유하는까닭·····································175
수백년만에발견된홍랑의묏버들가·······························177
ㆍ한국에서최근유행하는노래·········································178
ㆍ최경창과홍랑의사랑과이별·········································181
ㆍ묏버들가를찾아가는여정·············································186
ㆍ유라시아를가로지르는절류기원··································189
나흘째,의주길을걷다
소원을말해봐,용미리마애이불·······································196
ㆍ용꼬리에선큰바위······················································197
ㆍ대규모불사는누가일으켰나·········································203
ㆍ미켈란젤로버금가는대가의솜씨··································208
고려건축의흔적혜음원지···············································211
ㆍ범내려오던고갯길·······················································211
ㆍ혜음사건립목적··························································214
ㆍ혜음원의용도를추적하다·············································219
파평윤씨와청송심씨의400년묘지다툼·······················226
ㆍ윤관묘로지목된이씨묘··············································227
ㆍ계미년5월시작된산송·················································233
ㆍ영조의개입과갈등의중단············································238
ㆍ시대가바뀌어이루어진두문중의화해··························244
에필로그_여전히이야기할것이많은곳···248
참고문헌···252
I.우리는파주를몰랐다(출간의미)
현대사부터고려시대까지파주의역사를아우르며답사를한책이나왔다.이책을읽으면독자들은파주에이야기가이렇게많이숨어있다는데놀랄지모른다.대개파주하면DMZ를떠올리지만,분단되기전파주는개성의인삼과새로운문물이들어오는서울의‘문’과같은곳이었다.또서울의사람이개성으로,의주로,그리고대륙으로가는첫길목이었다.이책은알려진파주이야기를더깊게보여주고,알려지지않은파주이야기를새로이발굴한다.
저자는한국현대사의큰장벽인DMZ에서출발해근현대사를품고흐르는임진강,조선시대와고려시대문화의중심지였던파주의이야기를들려준다.현장의사진이저자의글을단단하게뒷받침한다.판문점안낯선추모비의정체와DMZ안에지어질수밖에없던포로수용소,영국군의희생으로중공군의남하를저지한설마리전투,성당건물을구호품으로받은갈곡리마을,기호학파의산실이된서원의유래와영조까지개입한파평윤씨와청송심씨의400년묘지다툼,한번보면잊을수없는용미리마애불등파주는무궁무진흥미진진하다.
파주이야기에더깊게들어가다
판문점과DMZ,파주에관해흔히떠올리는단어다.저자는여기서좀더들어간다.예를들면,파주를여행한사람들이한번쯤다녀가는통일전망대가있는오두산성(관미성)은삼국시대부터중요했다.백제고구려,신라가피터지게싸우며차례로차지한곳이다.그오두산성이12·12쿠데타와관련돼있다는이야기를저자는밝혀낸다.육군제9사단의관할이었고,당시사단장은노태우소장이었다.북한과대적해중요한곳을지켜야할군인들이대한민국서울로향한것이다.박정희정권과맞섰던장준하선생묘역이있는오두산성근처에노태우의묘역도조성된다고하니역사의아이러니다.
파주는예로부터유학자들의고향이었다.많은학자들의묘가파주에있다.특히율곡은자신의묘와어머니신사임당,아버지의묘가모두파주의자운서원경내에있다.이책에는한국철학사에한획을그은이이,성혼,송익필의‘파주삼현’이야기가자세히소개된다.한편,현재민간인통제구역내에있는덕진산성은인조반정의중요한배경이기도하다.
고려시대로가면보물93호인용미리마애불이야기가눈에띈다.용미리마애불은우리나라에서드문쌍미륵불이다.앞에서볼때웅장한모습에놀라고뒤로돌아가면이걸어떻게조각했는지입이다물어지지않는다.저자는용미리마애불의예술성을극찬한다.조성배경을자세히설명하면서이렇게이야기한다.
미켈란젤로(1475~1564)의말이떠오른다.“나는대리석에서천사를보았고,그천사가풀려날때까지조각을했다.”그에게조각이란돌속에갇힌형상을드러내어생명을부여하는행위라는것이다.우리조선은미켈란젤로가아직꼬맹이였을때미켈란젤로에버금가는대가급의조각가를갖고있었다.(210쪽)
그외에도저자는이책에서알려진유적지이야기에알려지지않은이야기를찾아내살을붙임으로써이들이장소의의미를더가지게한다.
알려지지않은파주이야기를발굴하다
판문점관광을가면관광객들은안내를통해잔디밭에있는비석에추모의시간을가진다.비석의주인공은고(故)장명기상병이다.소련인기자가갑작스레북에서남으로망명을하는중에일어난교전으로사망했다.판문점을관할하고있는유엔군은매년잊지않고추모식을하지만우리국민들은존재를잘모른다.저자는판문점이야기에더해유족들을인터뷰하여장명기상병을기록한다.유족들이건넨사진에는지금과모습이다른도보다리에서장상병이웃으며서있다.
또한,기록으로는처음으로민간인통제구역에서어로활동을하는임진강어부를소개한다.임진강은서해안을앞에두고한강하류와만나는데다인간의손을덜탔기에물반고기반이다.저자는신세대어부박우군씨를만나임진강어부의일상을기록한다.
그외에도한국전쟁당시포로수용소가DMZ내에설치될수밖에없었던이야기(이승만대통령의인도군육지상륙반대),한마을에19명의성직자가나온갈곡리성당마을,고려시대의국립호텔이있었다는설이있는혜음원지등알려지지않은파주이야기를문헌과현지인인터뷰를통해생생히발굴한다.
정성을들인지도와사진-북한여행의마중물이되기를바라며
지리적으로파주는한강과임진강하류를끼고있다.강과육지가북한과맞닿아있으면서서울의북쪽‘문’이다.구석기시대부터사람이살아유물이고루발견된다.개성,서울과가까워역사의큰흐름때마다중요한장소가되었다.
파주에는둑과제방이많다.파주의‘파’는언덕을의미한다.서울에서개성을지나의주로이어지는길목이었으나현재는군사분계선으로길이막혀있다.대표적인파주의길은자유로,경의선,의주로이다.자유로는국가산업단지인출판단지,대규모신도시를서울과잇고,옛길의주로에는대외교역이활발하던고려시대의유적이산재해있다.의주로는통일로바뀌어다시북한으로이어질날을기다리고있다.
이러한것을저자의글뿐아니라파주곳곳을누빈사진과정성들인지도에도담았다.언젠가북한을여행하게될날을바라는이들에게이책이마중물역할을하면좋겠다.
II.책의내용-파주하루여행하기
이책은하루에여행할수있는장소들단위로묶어서크게네개의챕터로구성했다.
〈첫날,비무장지대를가다〉
DMZ안의장소들을볼수있다.판문점과장명기상병추모비,도라전망대의풍경과역사가눈을뗄수없게펼쳐진다.판문점은통일부에,도라전망대는파주시에신청해서갈수있다.
〈이틀째,임진강은흐른다〉
임진강과그주변에읽힌이야기다.삼국시대부터요충지였던오두산성에얽힌근현대사,남의나라에와서많은희생을치렀던영국군글로스터대대이야기,수많은성직자와수도자를배출한작은마을갈곡리,임진강어부의이야기가읽는사람을숙연하게만든다.갈곡리를제외하곤분단으로인해출입에장애가있는곳들이다.
〈사흘째,파주의지역성과보편성〉
파주삼현이라불리는송익필,이이,성혼의교류를살펴보고,파주로한양을천도하려다결국퇴위까지된광해군과인조반정의이야기를품고있는덕진산성,고등학교국어교과서에시가나오는홍랑의묘와시비를찾아간다.저자는홍랑을품고있는파주는행복하다라고할만큼홍랑의시를절창으로묘사한다.
〈나흘째,의주길을걷다〉
용미리마애불,고려시대의국립호텔로알려진혜음원지에대한다른이야기,그리고묘가많은파주에서400년간이어진묘지다툼이야기로마무리를한다.
〈에필로그〉에서저자는파주를일복이많은곳이라고이야기한다.구석기시대부터사람이살았던곳이고한국전쟁을고스란히겪은파주에아직남은이야기가많다는의미이다.파주에관심을가지고,나아가근현대사와고려의알려지지않은우리역사이야기를알고싶다면이책을적극추천한다.
