온지음이 차리는 맛: 뿌리와 날개(영문판) (Onjium`s Cookbooks: Roots and Wings)

중앙화동재단부설전통문화연구소온지？

온지음은전통문화에담긴가치와정신을계승하고이를현대화하여내일의유산을만들어가겠다는의지로만들어진전통문화연구소다.의,식,주분야로나누어‘옷공방’,‘맛공방’,‘집공방’에서전문장인을양성하고있다.이책의저자인온지음맛공방은궁중요리이수자조은희수석연구원과박성배수석연구원을비롯한20여명의연구원으로구성되어있다.이들은선조들로부터내려오는고조리서와지역이나가문으로부터전해져내려오는반가조리법을현대의조리법과접목해전통의맛을현대인들도즐길수있도록하는연구에매진하고있다.

Publisher’sForeword
Onjium’sRetellingofGoryeoFlavorsandAmbience

Prelude
Onjium’sStoreofFlavors

EssaysonaLandscape
Gaeseong-bound

YouHongJune,TheIntricacyandRefinementofGoryeoAesthetics:Geukjeonggyo(OftheUtmostIntricacy)Jieoseomnyeo(ExceedinglyRefinedandBeautiful)
HyegyeongJeong,TheRootsandWingsofKoreanFood:Onjium’sGoryeoCuisine

Recipes-Onjium’sOfferingofGaeseongFlavors

SprightlyMouthfuls:AnimatingtheTasteBuds
Bugak·Kkwong-po·Yukpo-dasik·Yulgo·Eoran·Daechu-insam-mari

SoothingtheStomach:Porridges
Sok-mieum·Jat-juk·Seoritae-juk·Kkae-juk

RefinedAttentiveness:Appetizers
Mil-cheonsin·Okjamhwa-kkot-ssam·Oi-seon·
Tangpyeong-chae·BogeoPipyeon
Bogeo-kkeopjil-japchae·Eoyuk-kimchi-naengchae·
Nakji-hwe·Modum-hwe·Modum-pyeonyuk·Cheongeo-hwe

NoodlesandDumplings:DonewithPersonality
Joraengitteok-guk·Joraengitteok-bokkeum·Sanghwa-byeong
Gaeseong-mandu·Memil-pyeonsu·Kalssakdugi
Nokdu-nongma-guksu·Dongchimi-baengmyeon

AbowlofWarmth:SoupsandStews
Cheongpo-guk·Honghap-miyeok-gukandJogae-tang
Bok-tang·Seolleongtang·Gomtang·Chueo-tang
Cheollyeop-guk

FormalCuisineforGuests
Jeongbuk-kkot-jjim·Mineo-eochae·Yeolguja-tang-ban
Honghaesam

MildFlavorsComeTogetherwithTime:SteamedDishes
Hwangnan-jjim·GaeseongAehobak-seon
Haesam-jjim·Ge-jjim·Sujeung-gye
Gaji-jjim·Hwalgye-jjim·Gaeseong-mu-jjim

LightYetFlavorful:GrilledDishes
Maegjeok-gui·Bogeo-saseul-jeok·Bangja-gui
Neobiani·Soondae-gui

DiverseVariationsonRice
Dubu-namul-bap·Mu-gul-kimchi-bap
Gesal-muchim-bap·Yakbap·Haeju-bibimbap

FermentationandPreserves
Geui-jang·Gaeseong-bo-kimchi
Jeonbok-jeotandHanghap-hae·Oi-jjanji·Yeonan-sikhae
Gosu-sunmu-kimchi·Gaeseong-jangttaengi

SavorySideDishesfromGaeseong
Modum-jangajji·Mu-kong-jorim·Gaeseong-chae-namul
Hodu-japchae·Bam-jeon·Namul-jeon
Jeyuk-jeon·Bugeo-bopuragi

Sweetnessthatgoeswellwithacupoftea
GaeseongJu-ak·Yul-lan
GaeseongYakgwaandMandu-gwa·Songdo-sikhye
Gaeseong-mul-gyeongdan·Insam-jeonggwa·Dasik
Songdo-yeot-gangjeong

AboutOnjium

RecipeIndex

“마음은후손을위한뿌리다.
뿌리를심지않고그가치와잎이무성할수는없다.”

우리나라전통문화를올바르게계승하고현대화하여내일의유산으로만들어가는창조적인장인들의집단,전통문화연구소온지음의맛공방은그동안고조리서에기반을두어조선의궁중음식과선비정신에바탕을둔반가음식을연구해왔다.연구내용을기반으로우리식문화의정수를탐구하고현대인의입맛에맞는레시피의실질적인구현에매진해왔다.지난2016년,맛공방의연구기록을모아조선반가의내림음식과잊혀가던지역의여러조리법을통섭한첫번째도서『온지음이차린』을선보였다.2022년도에는조선의울타리를넘어전통한식의원형을고대에서부터찾아보고자하였고,최초로한반도를완전하게통일한고려시대를선택하였다.

전통음식연구의대부분은관련문헌이다수남아있는조선시대에국한되기쉽다.그러나온지음맛공방은이러한부족한문헌자료의한계를극복하고고려시대식문화를중심으로고려를전반적으로조망하고기록하는새로운도전에나선다.두번째맛공방도서『온지음이차린-뿌리와날개』는수천년의역사속에서변용되고발달해온한식의원형을시기적으로는약천년전,고려에서부터짚어보면서한식의스펙트럼을좀더확장하고자하는목적을가진다.이책은찬란한문화를꽃피웠던고려왕조의수도였던개성음식에주목하여한식의‘뿌리’에대한답을찾아가는맛공방의여정을담았다.

고려는특히공예문화가발전하여비색청자,나전칠기,금속공예,불화,사경등독창적이고자주적인성격이강한문화유산이많았던시대이다.고아한정취와풍류를즐길줄아는고려사람들의음식문화또한다채롭고풍요로웠다.온지음맛공방에서는유물과문헌으로부터전해내려오는고려의멋과정신과미학을바탕으로,개성음식을오늘날에맞게유의미한메뉴로개발하여새로운시각에서한식의원형을제안한다.

“뛰어난맛일수록어김없이담백하느니,
강한맛은첫입에는끌리나싫증나기쉽고
담백한맛은서서히스며오래도록입맛을사로잡는다.”

500년의세월을고스란히담은고려왕조의개성음식은독특한미식문화양상을띠고있다.고려왕실과귀족이향유했던고급미식문화부터,주변국과의교류로얻은개방적인음식문화,그리고국교인불교에서비롯된채식문화,그리고송나라에서유입되어독자적인자문화로발전시킨차문화까지.그외에도지역성을가진수수한서민음식과경제적으로큰영향력을행사했던상인계층의음식누림또한고려시대의폭넓은음식문화를단편적으로보여준다.특히산과들과바다가모두인접하게위치한개성지역은고기와곡식뿐만아니라해산물,산나물,과일등의식재료를풍부하게얻을수있었고풍요로운미식문화가발전하기에적합한장소였다.

고려에서부터이어져내려온오랜역사와문화를가진개성음식은대체로간을은은하게하여재료본연의맛을헤치지않도록하고특유의깊고진한‘담백함’을가진다.개성음식속‘담백함’이란짜거나맵지않은슴슴한맛을일컫는데,『온지음이차린-뿌리와날개』에차례로소개되는레시피는개성음식의담백함을이끌어내기위해온지음맛공방의현대적인해석을덧입혀완성시켰다.이책에서는고려인들의생활상이담긴조랭이떡국,한국김치중가장아름답다고꼽히는개성보김치,쌍화점에등장하는개성만두와편수,고기를갈아넣고발효과정을거쳐깊은맛을내는개성장땡이,주로의례용음식으로올라온홍해삼,개성명물로알려진오이선,불교행사와왕실에서즐겨먹었던개성주악에이르기까지현재살아있는개성음식뿐만아니라점점잊혀져가는개성음식도함께소개한다.

이밖에입맛을돋우는안주거리,속을따뜻하게달래는죽,섬세한정성이담긴전체요리,고려의수수함을담은면과만두,뜨끈한국과탕,격식차린접대음식,여러재료가조화롭게어우러진찜요리,담백하고도진한맛을내는구이요리,밥과반찬,발효와저장음식,그리고달콤한다과레시피까지아낌없이소개하고비법을공유한다.이를통해고려의멋과운치를담은온지음만의‘현대적으로재해석한개성음식’을선보인다.그와함께고려비색의미려한미감을품은공예품과개성곳곳을세세하게들여다볼수있는지도이미지,그리고고려시대라는시간과개성이라는공간의생활상과정취를상상하고짐작케하는시문구와소설구절까지도함께즐길수있다.